Riccardo Tisci's debut collection for Burberry, unveiled in the Fall/Winter 2019 season, marked a significant moment in the brand's history. Departing from the established aesthetic, Tisci, known for his dramatic and often gothic designs, infused the classic British heritage of Burberry with a contemporary, edgy sensibility. The collection, presented in a two-part campaign, dramatically showcased this reimagining, beginning with a nautical-themed first installment that hinted at the brand's rich history while simultaneously forging a bold new path. This article will delve into the key elements of the Burberry Mens Fall 2019 collection, examining its design language, its impact on the fashion world, and its connection – however tangential – to the popular Burberry Weekend fragrance line.
The Fall/Winter 2019 campaign, titled "Memories," cleverly juxtaposed the romanticism of the sea with the urban grit of London. The imagery, shot against the backdrop of a stormy ocean and the raw concrete of the city, underscored Tisci's vision: a sophisticated blend of classic and contemporary, of ruggedness and refinement. Models, clad in the new collection, posed against the dramatic landscapes, their expressions conveying a sense of both melancholy and resilience. This visual narrative mirrored the clothing itself, which seamlessly merged traditional Burberry elements with Tisci's signature avant-garde touches.
The collection showcased a masterful use of texture and layering. Heavy wool coats, meticulously tailored and often featuring oversized silhouettes, were paired with slim-fitting trousers and knitwear. The iconic Burberry check, a cornerstone of the brand's identity, was reimagined in new and unexpected ways, appearing as subtle accents on outerwear, as bold panels on shirts, and even integrated into the knitwear designs. Tisci cleverly modernized the classic pattern, giving it a fresh, almost subversive feel that resonated with a younger generation while still appealing to loyal Burberry customers.
The color palette reflected the campaign's duality. Deep navies, rich burgundies, and somber greys were juxtaposed with flashes of brighter hues – pops of vibrant red, electric blue, and even the occasional unexpected neon. This clash of colors added a layer of complexity and intrigue, highlighting the collection's blend of opposing elements. The use of contrasting materials – such as the combination of luxurious cashmere with robust leather – further emphasized this duality, creating garments that were both luxurious and functional, elegant and rebellious.
Beyond the outerwear, the collection featured a range of meticulously crafted pieces. The knitwear, often featuring graphic patterns or intricate cable knits, provided a sense of warmth and comfort. The shirts, ranging from classic button-downs to more experimental designs, offered versatility and style. And the trousers, whether slim-fitting or wider-legged, showcased Tisci's commitment to impeccable tailoring and attention to detail. The overall effect was a collection that was both cohesive and diverse, capable of appealing to a wide range of individual styles and preferences.
While the Burberry Mens Fall 2019 collection itself didn't directly reference the Burberry Weekend fragrance line, the spirit of the collection – its blend of classic and modern, its emphasis on both sophistication and ruggedness – subtly echoes the fragrance's own appeal. Burberry Weekend, launched in 1997, has become a classic men's fragrance, known for its fresh, woody, and subtly spicy scent. Its notes of green apple, bergamot, and cedarwood create a scent that is both sophisticated and approachable, a balance mirrored in the design ethos of Tisci's collection.
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